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There are a range of materials that a suit could be made from, each with its unique attributes that make it effective, such as linen or silk. The more important question for beginners is “What shouldn’t my suit be made from?”

In lower end suits (though often from quite high priced brands) there is a tendency to add polyester to a suit in order to help it maintain its shape and make the material tougher. If at all possible these poly-blend suits should be avoided, as polyester does not breathe as well as wool, and tends to have a “shine” that marks it out as distinctly low quality.

In a previous life I was a pilot of light aircraft and one incident turned me away from polyester as a material for life. When chatting to a gnarled old pilot before going out for some aerobatics practice he told me to make sure I removed the mandatory high-vis yellow vest before take off. When I asked why he replied “when (not if) you crash there is always be some kind of fire and polyester melts. I don’t know about you, but surviving a crash just the have months of skin grafts to remove yellow plastic from your body doesn’t exactly sound fun.”

In practice this is probably a wild overstatement and when dealing with suits there is usually only 30 to 50% polyester content. There are certain situations that I would even recommend poly blend suits to a customer: for use in a less-than-careful environment such as night clubs and rowdy parties, for those who put their suits under a great deal of stress for example those working in shops or on building sites. Generally speak though, if the tag tells you that the suit contains polyester is is normally best to pass over it.

Ok so we have a good idea of what to avoid, but what should you be actively seeking out?

Wool is and has always been the standard material for making suits, it is tough, resilient and easily woven and dyed. The majority of suits on the high street are made from Australian wool as the country has not only the space but the climate and grass that best suits the growth of a fine fleece. The merino sheep which donates its fleece to everything from suits to pullovers is the most numerous, and the wool is particularly good for suits as it can absorb 30% of its weight in water before it begins to feel damp which is of course useful in the rather damp European weather.

As a bare minimum your suit must be from wool then, but what can be added to the cloth to improve its characteristics?

The most common you will find on the high street is silk. By adding up to 30% silk to the wool the maker has designed a cloth that feels lighter, but with a more lustrous sheen to the surface. Highly valued among the more style orientated customer this blend is obviously something special just from the look. Considered to be a little “showy” for the conservative business crowd it is particularly good as a casual suit, for evening events.

Silk is also a nice cloth because it breathes well, and combined with its lighter weight makes for a good tropical suit that holds its shape and resists wrinkles better than linen.

Linen differs from silk as it should not be blended with wool but be left as the sole ingredient. A linen suit is by far the most casual that you might encounter, designed to the hottest climates and driest weather. A linen suit is a wonderful garment to have in the wardrobe either in a sand or dark blue colour. The trousers and jacket can very easily be used as separates, making your single suit into three distinct outfits.

Next we come to Mohair, the wool shorn from goats with a crisp feel and deep lustre. If you are looking for a suit that will make you look “sharp” consider the extra expense of mohair. Because it takes dye well, insulates in winter and wicks moisture like linen it is often more expensive than wool, and paired in a 30-70 ratio with wool. If you wear suits in the company of those who spend a good deal on tailoring, or are particularly knowledgeable, the cloth can come across as slightly extravagant. In the company of those who wear designer suits from the fashionable brands, the cloth fits in well, appearing crisp and well cut. I mostly recommend this fabric for a more aggressive cut, narrow and angular to accentuate a slim or muscular frame. On the larger gent the added sheen can highlight unwanted bulges and curves.

In contrast to Mohair cashmere represents the epitome of softness and warmth. Great care should be taken when looking at cashmere (all kinds, not just suits), as with all things in life, there are differing levels of quality. Price is not always a good indicator, the most expensive brands will slap a high price on anyone that bares their name, regardless of quality. I look for cashmere that doesn’t feel too soft in the store as the fibres will be broken down as you wear the garment and something that already feels fluffy and fragile will tend to pill and bobble after just a few wears.

When speaking of suits it is unusual to come across a cloth with more than 30% cashmere at the very highest end, with most quality cloths hovering around the 10% mark. The fact is that cashmere is not a durable material, and needs the rugged wool for support. I usually advise people that their fourth or fifth suit should be a cashmere blend in an understated colour: good for when you wish to present a more refined image, but not for every day use.